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Vino Verité Wine Clubs
Travelers' Club August 2010
2006 Navarro Gewürztraminer (Anderson Valley,
California)
Dave visited the Anderson Valley last month on his trip to explore
some wineries in Northern California, and he came back raving about
the wines from Navarro vineyards. From my time in California,
the Anderson Valley has been one of favorite places to visit, and
not just for the wine. The area is beautiful and somewhat isolated,
and has remained friendly, farming focused and very down to earth
for its entire existence. Located along highway 128 which travels
inland from the costal town of Mendocino, the Anderson Valley has
some of the oldest and best established vines in all of California.
The wines which originally made the reputation for the region were
two whites, Riesling and Gewürztraminer (Pinot Noir is also
well-known here too). Both whites, while distinctly having a
California fruit-driven style, were uncannily similar to the old
world Rieslings and Gewürztraminers coming from Germany and Alsace.
The 2006 Navarro Gewürztraminer is made from 100% estate fruit and
shows the classic grace, style, and power these wines are capable of;
on the nose, rich floral notes lift the melon and lychee which then
become the body of the wine. Next the profile deftly turns to
focused citrus and juicy peach accented with honey and rose petal
before exiting with a mineral and lightly spiced finish. This is
a wine with "layers" of flavor which unfold in distinct
stages. It is a great tasting experience to taste slowly and
carefully. What's more is the flavor profiles are exact enough that
one could consider the notes of the wine as a caliber by which to
"test" one's taste buds. Enjoy with a wide range of food,
from Asian dishes to grilled or roasted chicken. Superb with
appetizers that use nuts, fruit, and cheeses, and very interesting
with certain tapenade combinations. Supply is up in the air
(restaurants really chase the Navarro label), so drink now and come
back for more.
Boedecker Cellars Pinot Noir Athena (Willamette Valley,
Oregon)
I still remember when the shop opened and we were stocking the
shelves, I was lining up bottles in the domestic Pinot Noir section,
and my eye caught the Boedecker label as I put it on the top
shelf. "Boedecker?" I thought. I had a friend in college
named Stuart Boedecker, and had lost track of him; suddenly my
memory clicked in, and I remember reading an alumni publication in
which Stuart had announced the opening of his winery. Stuart
Boedecker and Athena Pappas came up last fall to taste with us,
and their wines were a huge hit with everyone. Personable, humorous,
and incredibly observant and dedicated in their winemaking, we have
seen more elegant and nuanced results from their efforts than from
many other Oregon producers. The named "Stuart" and
"Athena" Pinot Noir labels reflect their different
approaches to blending and taste. We're thrilled to be featuring
the Athena, and like everything from the Boedecker project, some
age on the wine is making it show very well. Uniquely charming and
balanced, this Pinot Noir seems to achieve the impossible:
lightness in weight yet very pronounced and full in flavor. Bright
and spicy at first, this broadens quickly with appealing raspberry
and pepper notes, leading to an inviting and smooth finish,
showing enough tannins for continued aging if so desired.
Definitely needs to breathe to show its full palate; do give it a
chance to dazzle. Excellent with Salmon, of course, and can handle
some heartier preparations such as glazes on top of the fish,
chutneys, and so on. We hope to have Stuart and Athena up again
this year.
Vino Verité: More wine, less attitude!
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