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Vino Verité Wine Clubs
Travelers' Club July 2010
2000 Lopez de Heredia Tondonia Rosé (Rioja) $24.00
We give a respectful gesture to our long-time friend and customer
Mager for his adherent love of the Lopez de Heredia line of wines.
It's not that without him we would be unaware of this label, but it
is really something to see how much he enjoys every chance he gets
to taste one. There's a sparkle in his eye every time he knows a
new Heredia is available on the market, and it is true the
Tondonia wines are always fascinating, complex, and beautiful.
While there are many superb wines made in the Rioja region in
Northwest Spain, many are created to be consumed within a year or
two within the vintage date. But a few wineries purposefully hold
their wines in bottle for a minimum of a decade; this is to
create a unique and formidable final result.
Yet even among the wineries which hold their wines for aging,
Lopez de Heredia still stands apart. Here is the difference, we
think: Somehow Lopez de Heredia's wines demand a relationship
with whomever is tasting them; the wines always bring reaction,
adventure, education, and certainly create conversation afterwards.
It's as if the wines themselves are characters with distinct
personalities that can change with the person tasting them.
This rose is light but very affecting, with dried rose petal,
strawberry, and hints of cedar on the nose; the body is fresh
with tangy berry notes, mixed with essence of rose, and just a
touch of spice on the wind - sandalwood it seems, yet the
mysterious final notes draw one in for taste after taste.
2007 Mourges du Gres Capitelles des Mourgues
(Costières de Nīmes) $32.30
In a word, exquisite. This wine is a perfect example of what we
live and wait for in our business. Not only is this a chance to
try an exceptionally made wine form a great vintage, but you
are truly tasting a wine that should be two to three times its
price point. Located in the southern French region of
Costières de Nīmes, the Capitelles des Mourgues employs
Syrah as the main grape, also using Grenache and Carignan to
round out the blend. The name, Capitelles des Mourgues, refers
to the French equivalent of a "line shack" like one
might see along the borders of a massive Wyoming ranch: but the
difference is obviously vineyards versus cattle. When the workers
are out picking or tending the vineyards, and the weather gets
dicey, they take shelter and store their tools in this small, stone
structure. The idea is that tradition is key here, and it shows
in this wine. We imagine the process and the flavors being at
least thematically similar for several hundred years; the Syrah
fruit is selected from a single vineyard that may be some of
the oldest vines in the region. The depth is immediately
noticeable; you will taste this and perhaps find it unbelievable.
Definitely let this wine open up for at least an hour, and its
full flavor profile will unfold: perfectly smooth blackberry and
black plum with hints of tar, smoky herbs, mineral, and floral
edges; the finish is out of this world, with coffee and chocolate,
light tannins and pleasing dry texture.
Pairing Suggestions: As deep and dark as this wine
seems, do not let it fool you into steak or something too heavy;
there is not a great deal of acidity here so even cheeses can
overwhelm the nuances. Perhaps the best combination would be
Chicken Marbella, a Mediterranean favorite which uses capers,
bay leaves, prunes, and Spanish olives as part of the marinade.
The seemingly wild list of ingredients plays beautifully with
this incredible southern French red.
Vino Verité: More wine, less attitude!
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