Follow us on FacebookFollow us on Twitter

Vino Verité Wine Clubs

Travelers' Club July 2010

2000 Lopez de Heredia Tondonia Rosé (Rioja) $24.00
We give a respectful gesture to our long-time friend and customer Mager for his adherent love of the Lopez de Heredia line of wines. It's not that without him we would be unaware of this label, but it is really something to see how much he enjoys every chance he gets to taste one. There's a sparkle in his eye every time he knows a new Heredia is available on the market, and it is true the Tondonia wines are always fascinating, complex, and beautiful. While there are many superb wines made in the Rioja region in Northwest Spain, many are created to be consumed within a year or two within the vintage date. But a few wineries purposefully hold their wines in bottle for a minimum of a decade; this is to create a unique and formidable final result.

Yet even among the wineries which hold their wines for aging, Lopez de Heredia still stands apart. Here is the difference, we think: Somehow Lopez de Heredia's wines demand a relationship with whomever is tasting them; the wines always bring reaction, adventure, education, and certainly create conversation afterwards. It's as if the wines themselves are characters with distinct personalities that can change with the person tasting them. This rose is light but very affecting, with dried rose petal, strawberry, and hints of cedar on the nose; the body is fresh with tangy berry notes, mixed with essence of rose, and just a touch of spice on the wind - sandalwood it seems, yet the mysterious final notes draw one in for taste after taste.

2007 Mourges du Gres Capitelles des Mourgues (Costières de Nīmes) $32.30
In a word, exquisite. This wine is a perfect example of what we live and wait for in our business. Not only is this a chance to try an exceptionally made wine form a great vintage, but you are truly tasting a wine that should be two to three times its price point. Located in the southern French region of Costières de Nīmes, the Capitelles des Mourgues employs Syrah as the main grape, also using Grenache and Carignan to round out the blend. The name, Capitelles des Mourgues, refers to the French equivalent of a "line shack" like one might see along the borders of a massive Wyoming ranch: but the difference is obviously vineyards versus cattle. When the workers are out picking or tending the vineyards, and the weather gets dicey, they take shelter and store their tools in this small, stone structure. The idea is that tradition is key here, and it shows in this wine. We imagine the process and the flavors being at least thematically similar for several hundred years; the Syrah fruit is selected from a single vineyard that may be some of the oldest vines in the region. The depth is immediately noticeable; you will taste this and perhaps find it unbelievable. Definitely let this wine open up for at least an hour, and its full flavor profile will unfold: perfectly smooth blackberry and black plum with hints of tar, smoky herbs, mineral, and floral edges; the finish is out of this world, with coffee and chocolate, light tannins and pleasing dry texture.

Pairing Suggestions: As deep and dark as this wine seems, do not let it fool you into steak or something too heavy; there is not a great deal of acidity here so even cheeses can overwhelm the nuances. Perhaps the best combination would be Chicken Marbella, a Mediterranean favorite which uses capers, bay leaves, prunes, and Spanish olives as part of the marinade. The seemingly wild list of ingredients plays beautifully with this incredible southern French red.


Vino Verité: More wine, less attitude!