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Vino Verité Wine Clubs
Travelers' Club April 2010
2006 Cancilla Cellars Chardonnay
When trying a Chardonnay - or frankly any other wine made by Ken
Cancilla - you should forget anything else you have tasted, and be ready
for a newer, better experience. Ken does not take anything lightly,
and prides himself on making wine of exceptional quality and where
possible, directly related to the flavors and qualities of European
versions of the same style. Therefore it is no surprise that his
Chardonnay is made from "select Dijon clones," which are
indeed clones from France's Burgundy region, but not at all from
the region of Dijon (it was an error in the US that gave the name
"Dijon" to these clones). Since these clones are better
adapted to cooler climates, the results are spectacular, and also
nearer to Old World Chardonnay. Ken's Chardonnay offers the lemon
zest, baked bread, and light oak tones that we would get from the
nose of a White Burgundy. The body of the wine is powerful and
elegant, delivering a seemingly impossible combination of creamy
texture and round flavor along with remarkably zesty and focused
lemon, pear, and lychee flavors, all framed by superb minerality.
This selection is truly a gift to the club members since there is
none of this amazing wine left. But if you love it, keep an eye out
for Ken Cancilla next time we do a tasting with him, and definitely
keep an eye out for his wines in our shop. He has no equal, we feel.
2000 Bibbiani Rosso dei Colli della Toscana Centrale
"Pulignano"
This month's club theme seems to be wines in rare supply: Pulignano
is a very uncommon clone of Sangiovese, and it is only grown on about
10 acres of land on one hill in Tuscany. While it has its own
qualities as a grape varietal, the resemblance to Sangiovese comes
out in this wine's nod to the style of deeper and darker Chiantis.
Now, keep in mind that even in the Chianti region, wines are not
usually made with 100% Sangiovese. So to get 100% Pulignano is truly
a unique experience in composition and flavor. Furthermore, this wine
is distinctly Italian in style, this is one amazing wine: Aromas of
plum and blackberry mix with floral tones and faints hints of
eucalyptus. The main body is showing its maturity with deft grace and
balance providing rich, dark, and slightly sweet currant and
blackberry with has hints of wood but not oak - more exotic like
mahogany. The finish sports some light notes of mint and tobacco.
There may be a bit of this left, and if so, we will be sure to have
some around. As for pairing, rather than name a dish, we suggest a
climate: choose a beautiful evening just before dusk, that starts
fairly warm but cools quickly. Stay outside with this bottle as long
as you can, letting the dense but warm flavors remind you of the
roots of fall that live in the cooler nights of spring. The angle
of the sun is, after all, about the same.
Vino Verité: More wine, less attitude!
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