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Vino Verité Wine Clubs
Travelers' Club February 2010
2008 Pierre-Yves Tijou Chateau Soucherie Anjou Blanc $18.50
The Tijou family has been making wines since 1780, and over the years
has taken over a variety of vineyards from "negociants"
(separate individuals or sales organizations which basically just
make the wine, and sell it) and crafted excellent wine that is always
nuanced by terrior, a word referring to the distinct aspects of the
soil, microclimate, and even the "angle" of the vineyards.
Anjou is a wonderful region located along the Loire River and has a
rich history both in terms of winemaking and also in terms of
princes, kings, and even Julius Caesar. It is said that the town
and county boundaries exist today because Caesar rather fiercely
organized the region once it was conquered. Anjou reds are made
predominantly from Cabernet Franc (though there is more being
done with Pinot Noir all the time) and the whites are typically
Chenin Blanc or Sauvignon Blanc. The Soucherie vineyards are quite
a small overall plot, and have mostly Chenin Blanc, with some rows
of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc as well. The Pierre-Yves family
picks the grapes manually, literally crossing the vineyards with
baskets held on their backs - and the results are similarly
personalized and refined. Elegantly floral, this opens with light
peach, pear, and soft melon flavors before moving to subtle notes
of honey and blossoms on the finish, all finessed with a
mineral-toned quality.
2004 Darling Cellars Onyx Kroon $23.30
We love coming across a great South African wine, and there are
many to be found, but this one may top the pack we've tried
recently. Simultaneously powerful and nuanced, the Oynx Kroon is
probably one of the best introductions to excellent South African
red blends one could try. First of all, Darling is a very specific
wine growing region, close to the ocean but protected and therefore
it's own microclimate. The soil is absolutely unique: a mix of red
clay along with bands of granite; perhaps needless to say, the
taste of wines form Darling is alluring and very different. In the
Kroon red blend is a curious mix of Pinotage and Shiraz, two very
traditional grapes varietals for South Africa which bring deep,
bold, dark, and smoky flavors, and also Cinsault and Grenache,
which are not as prevalent in the region, and provide lighter zesty
and spicy notes. The wine gushes with personality and detail:
smoke accented currant and chocolate greets the nose - the main
body is weighted perfectly with prune and plum, highlighted with
cocoa and spice notes, and just a touch of smoke to finish.
Fascinating and funky without being odd or overbearing - a great
journey for the palate and a great deal of fun to work into meal
pairings. We suggest grilled lamb marinated in olive oil, a touch
of balsamic, rosemary and garlic; also excellent with grilled
sausages and heavier cheeses such as feta, or just good 'ol
bangers and mash. We have all that is left in the Seattle area
of this wine - less than 100 cases total were imported to the
entire United States.
2005 Tramier Chateau Mi-Pont Mercurey $15.00
Located in between the two major wine producing regions in
Burgundy to the North and South, the Côte Chalonnaise is
a much smaller and often very famous region for producing red
Burgundy. Pinot Noir is a fascinating grape, since it tends to
be both difficult to grow and harvest, yet produces a wide
array of different styles and flavors, and vast differences in
flavors and style can occur even when the vines are within a
few hundred feet of each other. The Tramier Chateau Mi-Pont is
a darker, more brisk style than some red Burgundies, offering
bright blackberry aromas before following suit to its main body
of taut dark cherry and blackberry, moved along by dry tannins
and hints of spice and earth. The finish is surprisingly long
and vibrant as well.
Pairing Suggestions: Though it is a red wine, Burgundy
goes beautifully with herb-roasted chicken or duck.
Vino Verité: More wine, less attitude!
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