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Vino Verité Wine Clubs
Travelers' Club November 2009
2003 Jacqueson Rully 1er Cru "Gresigny" was $34,
now $25
White Burgundy. Need we say any more? Premier Cru may be one step
below in classification from Grand Cru vineyards, but the secret
is that one can find exceptional wines for great prices. These
officially designated vineyards have produced some of France's
best wines for hundreds of years. As always, we keep a hawk-eye
out for selections like this, because they aren't around for
long. (And we bought all the rest of this that was available.) This
is truly Chardonnay at its best. The town of Rully is in the
Côte Chalonnaise, which tends to get less world attention
because it contains no Grand Cru vineyards and only a few Preimer
Cru designated sites. The Jacqueson estate is run by a father and
son team who have been making wine together for over 70 years. The
wines tend to be less ageworthy but are exceptional, so when the
time comes to drink up, we can grab some exceptional values here.
Lovely toasted almond and apple aromas lead to pear, lemon, and
apple notes smoothed out beautifully by honey tones. Drink this
soon.
Pairing Suggestions: Get a high quality chicken or Cornish
hen, and bake traditionally, rubbing the skin with herbs and garlic.
Be sure to stuff the cavity of the bird with some sort of fruit to
keep the meat moist; this usually increases the cooking time (less
air to circulate within the bird), but is well worth the wait.
2004 Selection Laurence Feraud Gigondas was $32,
now $20
Gigondas, located in the heart of the Rhone growing region, has
sometimes been referred to as "Chateauneuf Jr." This
does not refer to any lesser quality for Gigondas is cabaple of
producing strikingly powerful and elegant wines. Coming from the
Latin "Jocunditas" (think "jocund" here)
meaning "a place to enjoy oneself," the region was
supposedly a recreation area for Roman soldiers. Vines have likely
been part of the landscape of the area for thousands of years.
This wonderful selection from Laurence Feraud shows off the deep
flavors commonly associated with the Gigondas style, but also
maintains delicacy in its delivery. Plum and full blackberry
dominate the main body with hints of molasses, finishing with
notes of dark coffee. Definitely let this breathe for at least
30 minutes to allow the complexity to emerge. This wine can
actually evolve significantly over the course of several hours,
so opening a bottle early is a good idea.
Suggested Pairings: Braised rabbit, medallions of beef,
and grilled vegetables, especially eggplant.
2006 Gundlach-Bundschu Napa Cabernet was $44,
now $26
Planted by Bavarian immigrant Jacob Gundlach in 1858, the
Gundlach-Bundschu vineyards in the heart of Napa valley could
be considered one of the originators of the classic California
wine style. They have always been "old school" in their
methods, preferring to keep the red wines bold, strong, and
well-placed with tannins to allow for longer lasting wines. The
2006 Napa Cabernet contains 85% Cabernet Sauvignon for the main
body, and is blended with 9% Syrah and 6% Petite Verdot. This
provides exceptional complexity and structure with some pretty
good tannins, and therefore the wine is suitable for aging.
Delightful floral notes mix with licorice and currant liqueur;
the main body is powerful and elegant, delivering cassis,
blackberry, and chocolate. Finishing with bitter coffee and
slightly earthy tannins, the fruit returns and lingers nicely.
California Cabernet as it should be.
Pairing Suggestions: a typical array of red meat dishes
would pair beautifully with this, but venturing to more exotic
flavors such as boar, sausage, or lamb would be divine.
Vino Verité: More wine, less attitude!
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