Preface: We choose this month's club wines from Triage Wines, with help of Noah Oldham. We have always trusted Noah's palate and Triage's commitment to importing "handcrafted wine made with natural techniques conveying a sense of place." And a real sense of place these wines do indeed convey - there is always talk of "terroir," and it is very evident in this month's choices. For both of the wines in the club, we are tasting the results of newer winemakers working with very old practices on old and well-founded estates. So in many ways, these represent the "new face" of Old World Style.

2006 Domaine Tissot Trousseau La Singulier
This delightful red wine from the Arbois region - a region usually known for its whites - is a perfect example of what we aim to bring you in the Traveler's Club: a well-known grape and wine-style to the region and to France itself, but perhaps relatively unknown to us in the States. If you have tried a Trousseau before, we are humbled in your presence. It's a wonderful grape, which likens itself to Pinot Noir or a dry version of Dolcetto D'Alba. As for Domaine Tissot, the background and current practices of this winery are important: while Domaine Tissot has been in existence for ages, it's now under the leadership of the owner's son, Stephane Tissot, who worked in the wine business in South Africa and Australia before settling again back in his hometown. Nestled up in the hills above the lovely small town of Arbois, the estate grows a fair amount of fruit but produces less wine that one would think. Because they are very selective with the grapes, the production is quite low, about 3200 cases a year total. Stephane has also fully converted the winemaking process at the estate to be completely biodynamic and organic. All grapes are picked by hand, loaded into baskets, and the reds are fermented in stainless steel tanks without adding yeast or sulfites. In other words, this is a pure as it gets.

Nose and Flavor: The limestone-laden soils play a major role here, and it is evident from the first whiffs of slightly chalky cherry and strawberry, laced with clove and cinnamon. The body follows suit with high-toned cherry and strawberry fruit, cinnamon and tea notes, backed with medium-weight tannins that suggest an age-worthy wine and very much a food-worthy one too.

Pairing Suggestions: Much like Pinot Noir, chill this slightly and serve with Salmon dishes; Northern African, Turkish, and Lebanese Cuisine would also be superb, given the spice profile of the wines and the food.

2006 Noussan Torrette Vallee d'Aoste
France Noussan is very new to winemaking, starting his small production winery (1500 cases a year) in 2004, but he is not at all new to vines: it is family vineyards he has taken over the care of to produce his artisan-class creations. ocated in the far Northwest corner of Italy, the Vallee d'Aoste is a region of beautiful and dramatic landscapes. The center of attention is the Lys river, which is quite small but vigorous because of the glacial feed from the nearby Alps. If one were to hike up the valley, eventually she or she would reach the mountain range of Mt. Blanc, France's highest and most famous peak. Noussan is a college professor, and in this stunningly beautiful region of Italy, he brings a scholarly and nature-driven sense to his wines.

Nose and Flavor: A blend of Petit Rouge, Mayolet, Cornalin and Vien de Nus, this has the aromas of crushed bark berries and mountain floral notes - one can also detect the sweet smells of minerals and wet stone typical to wines of this region.