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Vino Verité Wine Clubs
Travelers' Club May 2009
Clos Sainte Pauline 2000 $14
We are thrilled that we found this! It represents both an excellent
French red from the Coteaux du Languedoc, and also a superb example of
what mature wine provides in all of its velvet complexity. If you have
never had a bottle with this much age on it, prepare yourself for a
treat! A couple of notes on that point: first, this is a mature,
unfiltered wine; there is a lot of fine sediment in the bottle.
Therefore, stand it upright for about an hour, and when pouring,
pour slowly. If you wish to decant, do so carefully. Having said
this, there is nothing at all wrong with sediment in your glass!
Second, the aromas and flavors will be quite different from newer
wines - spend some time with the nose, and be sure to let this wine
evolve for a few hours, tasting it throughout the time it is open.
The nose sports inky plum, cedar, cassis, and spice notes - these
notes carry through in the central beam of black plum and cedar
spice, finely decorated with leather and hints of coffee. The
texture will make anyone swoon - silky smooth and just a touch of
mineral quality. We freely admit it's hard not to drink it all
down quickly; but try to let this wine sit in the glass for a bit.
You will be amazed with the way it changes. For pairing, we have
an interesting suggestion: rather than recommending a meal, we're
advocating for a time of day. Try opening this in the middle of
dinner, but save some to enjoy after the meal. Drinking this on
a May evening the sun sets and the cool of twilight just starts
to settle in will be an unforgettable experience. It's in fairly
good supply, and we're keeping some around the shop.
Leo Secco $20 \
So what would do the Saturday Night Live "Sprokets" drink
before a dance party? This wonderfully classy and dry sparking
wine hails from Germany - and it will most certainly win everyone
over. Sneak this in on someone who claims she or he "doesn't
like rosé." If they don't like it, check their
pulse. Made from 100% Pinot Noir, the strawberry and melon flavors
carry both weight and delicacy; the texture is creamy, and the
acidity perfect. The slightly earthy finish just adds to the
wealth of flavor. An interesting note about this wine: if served
very cold (40 degrees), the fruit and acidity will be the dominant
quality, and therefore great for pairing with appetizers of many
kinds. As the wine warms a bit (about 55 degrees), the creamy
mousse character will surface. We're still confirming the
availability of this wine, but it sounds like we won't be able to
get much more. If you like it, better grab it now.
Pairing suggestions: spring rolls with Thai sweet chili sauce;
summer sausage and cheese. Would also make a stunning match with
sage and pancetta wrapped grilled trout.
2006 Domaine de la Côte de l'Ange
Châteauneuf-du-Pape $28
You may recall that Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a fairly small
region in the Rhone which is well known for its intriguingly spiced
and thick reds, made predominantly from Syrah and Grenache. The
pictures of vines from the region tell the story of the strength
behind the wine: palm sized rocks are piled around the base of
the vines in order to absorb the sunlight during the day, and then
to radiate the heat to the roots at night. The result is complex
and substantial wine which has some of the most unique and
memorable flavors of any region in the world. Newer vintages from
Châteauneuf-du-Pape tend to be fruit forward; this selection
from Domaine de la Côte de l'Ange is described as
"old school" in one review: the focus is on the dark,
mineral side: roasted nuts, coffee, and slate aromas lead to
the ultra-dark currant core of fruit, trimmed with graphite, tar,
and plum-sauce notes. Smooth and generous, with an amazing
elegance to the strength of the flavors. A real treat now, and
certainly can be aged as well. We scored the last of these bottles,
so there is no more available. Be sure to let this breathe for at
least 20 minutes for it to begin to show its complexity.
Pairing suggestions: flank steak, grilled lamb chops, or
just a darn good burger! (easy on the onions, though.)
Vino Verité: More wine, less attitude!
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