2006 Bonny Doon Ca' Del Solo Sangiovese  $11
Randall Grahm, the winemaker (and, dare I say it, resident madman) at Bonny Doon, was getting lots of attention a few years ago, and the winery was growing by leaps and bounds. His Big House brands were even showing up in grocery stores and other mass-market places. Grahm was unhappy though. He said the rapid growth stressed their resources and infrastructure, and we suspect he also just wasn't happy making and selling mass-market wine. In 2006, he sold off the Big House and Cardinal Zin lines, and "returned to his roots," focusing on the production of distinctive biodynamically produced wines that truly express a sense of place - a concept known in wine making as "terroir." This wine is one of the survivors at Bonny Doon. Certified biodynamically-grown grapes go into this wine.

2006 El Castro de Valtuille Mencia Joven  $15
It's useful to picture the vineyards when explaining this wine: An old Roman fortress named "Castro de Ventosa", now in ruins, sits atop a small mountain looking over a rocky but green valley, full of vines, framed with mountains usually hung with brooding storm clouds. Located in the Northwest of Spain, the Bierzo wine region is a valley which has a remarkably rugged but protected microclimate. Vines have been growing there for perhaps thousands of years - it's not clear if the Romans brought the wine there or the wine brought the Romans. The result is one of the most intriguing and alluring wines we've ever tasted: made from the Mencia grape, the seemingly mysterious deep and dark berry flavors are somehow not at all heavy, decorated with notes of espresso, licorice, chocolate, and finishing with a hint of mint whisking across the palate. It's the final notes and finish of the wine that creates a cooling sensation; served slightly chilled, this is a stunning experience.

2005 Cave Saint-Désirat Syrah  $8
This Syrah is definitely one of our best finds in an inexpensive red this year so far. Medium bodied, with garrigue that's very expressive of place. Delicious!